A Journey to 5th Avenue: part 3

On the way back to my temporary home that night I stopped at a 7-11 to buy a bag of pretzels and a travel plug for my heated rollers, and it hit me…that’s why I love New York so much!

New York City is entirely designed for people exactly like me.

Chaotic, disorganised, time dyslexic, impulsive types who don’t even consider packing a travel plug (because they are too preoccupied with the silk/cashmere ratio in their suitcase) and occasionally need to find one without making the slightest effort or detour at 10.45pm.

As I snuggled into bed that night with Christian Dior’s Autobiography for company I felt sure the next day would be full of wonder…and it was.

I slept like a baby and bounded out of bed at 7am, I showered and dressed in a Julian MacDonald long sleeved black jersey wrap dress, opaque tights and red ‘T’ bar heels.
Before I’d left Bristol my mate Jase (probably the best hairdresser in the world) gave me a valuable piece of advice ‘darling, for Fifth Avenue you need big hair’ who am I to argue? My hair was massive!
I packed my portfolio, a scrapbook full of my press clippings, my CV, some red ballet pumps and a lipstick to match into my black patent tote, I wore my silver Gilly Woo ‘G’ necklace for luck, a quick spritz of Channel Coco Mademoiselle and I was as ready as I’d ever be…

I crossed the street to the Key West diner and sat at the counter, I ordered coffee, muffins, eggs and bacon. The waiter asked me where I was from and I told him I was from Bristol in England. There was a gentleman next to me reading the New York Times, he looked up, ‘do you know the Bristol Old Vic’ he said in a cut glass British accent…’of course!’ I replied, ‘I LOVE the old Vic.’

He told me he was an actor, originally from Kent, he’d played the Old Vic in 1979 and he thought Bristol was wonderful.
His name was Robert Ian MacKenzie, (I found out later that he was in a 'A view to a kill' with Roger Moore!)
He’d been living in New York for 18 years after meeting and falling in love with an American music historian whilst appearing in an Opera in Italy, they married and moved to New York and they are still as in love now as they ever were.

He told me how difficult the visa situation was at the moment and talked of the recession and immigration and his good friend Chesley Mclaren who lived a couple of blocks away. She is a successful fashion designer, illustrator and children’s author, he even rang her to ask her if she’d like to meet us for a coffee, but unfortunately she wasn't in.

Now, you have to agree, this kind of thing just doesn't happen in London does it?

Only in New York City could you meet a guy from a James Bond movie at breakfast who wanted to hook you up with a fashion designer from down the street because it might be helpful to you in some way!

We talked for over an hour about work and museums and the difference between British and American culture, we found that we had both suffered from carple tunnel syndrome and he showed me his scar from a recent operation.
We stayed for pie and had more coffee and then he had to go for a casting so he gave me Chesley’s number and his card, directed me down Broadway and wished me the best of luck.

It was around 10am by now and my interview wasn't until 4pm so I decided to walk down Broadway and take in New York City. I changed into my flats, reapplied my lipstick and set off for 5Th Avenue.

After a while, when I’d walked about 20 blocks I stopped to admire a beautiful clutch bag made entirely of peacock feathers which was nestled under the arm of a mannequin in a shop window.
Just as I was about to tear myself away I noticed a sign in the window advertising for staff. I have absolutely no desire to work in retail ever again and it would be highly unlikely that I’d get a visa application approved for such a job but I had nothing to lose but time so I changed into my heels again fluffed up my enormous hair and strolled in.
A pretty blond by the name of Bonnie, greeted me enthusiastically as I entered the shop (by name and by nature I thought with a grin.)
I enquired about the advert and handed her my CV.
‘You are kidding me right!’ she squealed, ‘you put on fashion shows?’
‘er…yes’ I replied with a smile.
‘God man, *Mark is gonna love you! I’m gonna get you an interview right now, hold on honey, I’ll give him a call.’
(*Not his real name.)
‘I have someone fabulous here,' Bonnie said, 'British, adorable, tons of experience can you see her today?’…And that was that, I had another interview lined up at 6pm on 42Nd and 5Th. (Though I didn't have a clue what for!)

I continued down Broadway until I found an Internet café, I ordered a latte and I googled the name of the boutique to gather some information.
It turns out there wasn't much information to gather, no official website, no company profile, but I did discover that there were a chain of 5 designer boutiques all located on the island of Manhattan, some further investigation gave me information on all the designers they stocked, most of them I knew well, the ones I didn’t I googled and got profiles on.
Bonnie had told me that three brothers owned the company, and that they were very sales orientated.
That would have to do.

I started to make my way across town. I had found both the boutique and the bridal atelier by 3pm so I bought a copy of time out and a pretzel from a vendor and rested on a bench for a while.
Then I made my way over to my first appointment.

Carrie was still interviewing the previous candidate when I got there so I browsed through the stock and talked to the sales girls.
I was impressed; it was good stuff, Susanne Neville, Cymbeline, good designers, no crap.
When she was ready Carrie called me into her office, she was looking for a bridal stylist, a sales person with experience of dressing women and selling add ons, she looked through my portfolio and we talked about the possibility of me making a bespoke collection for the shop in addition to the styling, as soon as we started to talk figures I lost interest. I've been down this road before I thought, designing in house, selling under someone else’s name, do I really want to go in that direction again? Could I go back to making commercially orientated dresses? Reproducing the same safe boring ivory satin strapless ‘A’ line time after time, year after year?

I liked Carrie a lot, I asked her if she was married, ‘to this shop’ she replied, ‘I know the feeling!’ I said, and we laughed and she winked at me and said, ‘honey, you and I could make a good team, all we have to do is sort you out a visa.’
Carrie said she would sponsor me in terms of helping with paper work and special skills documentation but that I would be responsible for all my own legal fees, she estimated it could cost me in the region of $8000.
Oh. My. God! Four grand! Really! and if they refuse my visa application? that’s it, no refund…just, better luck next time?
‘That’s about the size of it, have a think and let me know what you decide, if you want to move over here having a job to come to is your best chance of having your visa application approved.’
So we shook hands and she wished me luck and I headed off to my next appointment.

To Be Continued...

A Fairy Tale In New York: part 2

I had a hunch.
I needed to be in New York City in the first week of December, I didn't want to delay it. I couldn't wait to get there!
I also couldn't afford the flight...
I rang my fabulous Mother…I rang her so she’d talk some sense into me and tell me not to be so impulsive and that I’d have to wait and save up, but she didn't, she told me that I should go. She fully encouraged me to be irrational and irresponsible because of a hunch. Mad!
So I rang my amazing sister and I told her my thoughts and she said I had to go, she even offered to put the trip on her credit card and said that I could pay her back later.
So I rang my lovely Dad, and he helped me update my portfolio and he printed copies of my CV… and they all encouraged me and sent me on my way.

A few days before I was due to fly out I had an email from a lady named Carrie (!) she owned a Bridal Atelier on Fifth Avenue had seen my CV online and wanted to interview me on Wednesday.

So…I jumped on a plane to New York…

I arrived at Newark Airport at around 4pm local time.
I had a hard time at customs when I told them I was a fashion designer travelling alone.
They searched my bag to check I wasn't carrying a suitcase full of samples to sell! (Luckily, they didn't find my portfolio which was secreted in my hand luggage…) after a thorough rummage through my case the friendly but firm airport security gentleman simply said ‘nice shoes Mam…a lot, of nice shoes’ and sent me on my way.

On the airport shuttle I met an engineer from Berlin (of all places!) who was backpacking around America and a group of girlfriends from Newcastle on a Christmas shopping trip.

I was staying in a hostel in Manhattan on the upper west side, I wanted to stay somewhere residential, with good transport links, somewhere that I might like to live one day. The hostel was basic but super cheap and it suited me fine, I unpacked put on some high heels, a little lipstick and a leopard print beret, and went for a walk down west 94th Street.

I was as high as a kite that first night. Nothing could have bought me down and I couldn't help smiling as I took it all in, I was back, in New York City and anything could happen!
As I walked a man in a suit smiled at me and said he liked my hat as he passed me by, later a lady with a pushchair said ‘cute outfit honey’ as I crossed the street and then I stopped for a slice of pizza and a couple of beers and I felt content and at home and excited and the pizza was delicious.

To Be Continued...

"Illusion is the First of All Pleasures" Oscar Wilde.

Did you know that Agent Provocateur was a house hold brand name before they had opened a single shop?
Their marketing campaign was so successful that everyone wanted the product before they even knew what it was.
Astounding isn't it?
The company branding was, (and still is) more important and more impressive than the actual product and people still, happily, pay a premium for it.
On the contrary there are people making exceptional products and paying attention to quality, design, ethics and value for money and no one has ever heard of them.

Such is the crazy world we live in…

It is my (self imposed,) mission to bring to your attention these unsung heros of the fashion and beauty world.
Without bias or agenda I will share with you the secrets of a stylish, quality, functional capsule wardrobe, I will advise you when to save and when to splurge, and I will educate you on garment production and alteration, and on how to achieve a perfect fit.

But first... I need to talk a little bit more about your underwear.

I know you are probably thinking by now that I have an unhealthy obsession with your boobs and bums (and who wouldn’t? they are fabulous after all…) but this is important stuff!

All I’m doing is starting at the beginning...

That is to say…eat well, sleep well, exercise regularly, smile lots, love lots, have good underwear...

Problem solvers-the dos and don’ts:
First of all if you have any of those awful ‘invisible’ clear plastic bra straps in your lingerie draw throw them out immediately!! I mean it! Do it right now, (dancer’s you are exempt but ONLY when you are on stage and to be seen from an extreme distance.)
They are NOT invisible. We can all see them…who are you trying to kid?
You have two choices, a good strapless undergarment, or a garment with straps, it’s as simple as that.

Lingerie tape is your friend:
Use it all the time.
Affectionately called ‘tit tape’ it is a double sided, hypo allergenic, tape, which is a staple in any good stylist’s (or stylish person’s) ‘kit’. Use it to stick your top to your skin or your bra in order to avoid ‘wardrobe malfunctions’ and nipple flashing.
A great quick fix for a loose hem, lingerie tape can also be used to secure a slippy sling back or stick a lose court shoe to your foot, (particularly useful when wearing tights)
It can be purchased on rolls or in strips, which can easily be popped in your purse for reapplication (or for educational gifting to less stylish friends.)

Gym matters:
A good sports bra is essential for every single woman.
I wear a normal underwired bra underneath a super supportive sports bra when I do any high impact activity.
I always wear 100% cotton knickers and socks to the gym too, it’s healthier and more comfortable.

Magic knickers:
I hope you realise how difficult this is for me, I go against everything I stand for by telling the world I used to hate my boobs and now I’m discussing my granny pants!

First of all, as far as anyone knows, you don’t own any.

Only wear the ‘cycling short’ type under trousers (…or floor length skirts if, you are not planning on doing any of the following during the course of the evening: falling over, dancing on tables, doing the cancan, or demonstrating your high kick.)

N.B. As imposing these rules on yourself at any kind of social event is likely to hinder the experience Gilly Woo would suggest ONLY wearing them under trousers.

Tummy control knickers (which I don’t have any of;-) are great under dresses, particularly if they cinch your waist in too.
They smooth your contours and even out your shape.
The ones that I don’t own come up to my bra and are seamless, (this way you avoid the unsightly knicker line that can sometimes be visible at the waist.) Always buy them a size too small for maximum effect.
Department stores are your best resource for this item as they will carry lots of styles for you to try, I would avoid anything with boning unless you go made to measure, when buying off the peg I prefer to stick with ‘industrial strength’ elastic, it’s more comfy and less likely to show under clothing, boning only works when it’s rigid (as in corsetry.)
Do not be fooled by clever marketing! Just because Gok Wan or Trinny and Susanna are grinning at you from the label doesn’t mean it’s the best product on the market, try the old lady section in Debenhams, you might be surprised…

If you own any kind of contour dress and are bigger than a size 10 you need these in your life.

The Holy Grail

The strapless bra.
Complete waste of time...uncomfortable, unattractive, and always slipping down.
For years I have been saying 'why doesn't someone make a strapless bra based on corset technology?'
With corsetry all the support comes from underneath your bust so there is absolutely no need for a strap unless it is a design feature, no matter what your bust size.

(N.B: I'm talking about proper, good corsetry here girls, not basques or bodices or anything from Anne Summers, or anywhere at all actually, other than a proper corset maker.
I can't begin to explain the difference here, suffice to say, if it has less than 16 bones and less than 8 of them are steel it ain't a corset in my book...or in Dita's book or in any body else's, if they know their stuff.)

Because a corset fits snugly around your rib cage there is no where for your bust to go, it has to remain in the cup that you put it in, it is impossible for a corset to slip down and they never need to be 'yanked up'.
Because the cups are heavily boned you always have a perfect bust no matter how many shapes you throw on the dance floor.
As a perfect example I have a fabulous client who is a big fan of the 'running man' dance move (you know who you are;-)
To my knowledge, whilst donning her Gilly Woo Couture, she hasn't once had to do that awful unsightly 'hoik' action that so tragically accompanies most strapless ensembles.

For years I have been saying 'why doesn't someone make a strapless bra based on corset technology?'

and finally, FINALLY! someone has!!

I can not express how thrilling it was for me to discover this little gem in Debenhams 5 months ago.

As soon as I saw the oddly proportioned architectural esq structure, ( it was bathed in a halo of light, there were angels singing in my head and...) I said out loud, 'BY DIOR! THEY'VE ONLY BLOODY GONE AND DONE IT!!!'

This rush of elation was quickly followed by a swift metaphorical kick...as the hovering shop assistant backed away from me with an uneasy look in her eye and I realised, yet again, that somebody was going to make millions out of my idea and that somebody wasn't me....It was wonderbra actually.

http://www.ultimatestrapless.co.uk/

Gilly Woo - An Introdution.

Hello and welcome to my very first blog!

My name is Gilly and I'm a designer, dressmaker and stylist based in Bristol in the UK.
I design and make bespoke finery: bridal gowns, occasion wear and corsets, I style photo shoots, fashion shows, performers and individuals and I party pretty hard too.
I'm 30, I'm single and I live with a gay man, a papier mache flamingo and a lot of hats in a little flat in Cotham.

I decided to write this blog to offer impartial honest and realistic advice on style and beauty that comes from years of experience working with women of every age, shape and size and a deep seated, in built passion for making women feel beautiful, feminine, stylish and (above all) confident. Not from a load of celebrity endorsements and beauty industry back handers often designed to hard sell you unnecessary products by making you feel inadequate.

I deal with self depreciating, body dismorphic women every day and it makes me so sad that they can't see the beauty in themselves that is so obvious to me.

When I go out dressed up I get as many compliments from women about the way I look as I do from men, on one occasion, in a ladies powder room, I had an actual queue of women asking me where my outfit was from and complimenting me on my look, it took me 20 minutes to get out of the loo!... my date thought I'd climbed out the window ;-)
One of these women became a client, I told her her correct bra size, (2 cup sizes bigger that the one she was wearing) made her a corset (a welcome addition to any wardrobe and the only comfortable strapless garment she had ever owned) and altered some of her work suits so that they fitted her properly and drew attention to her tiny waist. I made an empire line dress which was entirely the wrong shape for her and far to small around her bust) into a pretty summer skirt and found a beautiful piece of silk to make a matching camisole (that fitted her bust perfectly.)

Most of these jobs were small and inexpensive but that woman told me I'd changed her life.
By learning how to dress her figure she began to love it for the first time.
People asked her if she'd lost weight or been on holiday and complimented her on how well she looked, her posture improved with her confidence and she told me that she was genuinely happier.

I'm not a model, I'm not unusually pretty, I'm an average size 12, I'm not rich or famous, (I'm not getting any younger!) there is nothing much spectacular about me at all, except that I know how to dress, I'm not afraid to stand out in a crowd, I know about underwear and structure and cut and fit and how to flatter my figure, I know how to apply good make up, I'm lucky enough to call my hairdresser my best friend and I'm on first name terms with my shoe repair guy.

It's as simple as that girls, it just takes a little knowledge and a little practise and it could just change your life....