Thursday, 28 January 2010

It's All In The Jeans

The perfect pair of blue jeans...

That illusive staple item that is never quite right.

Now. You know I do my best for you dear reader, but obviously, even I, can not recommend the perfect pair of jeans for every one of you. This is because I don't have experience of every pair of blue jeans on the market nor intimate knowledge of every one of your figures.

But I do know a lot about denim, I know a lot about fit and construction and I know a lot about what suits different body shapes so....

In your quest you have two options, you take what you need from the advice here in and do a bit of educated shopping or you hire me as a stylist or a dressmaker and get a guaranteed result.

(Without bias or I said, just outlining your options ;-)

First of all my own personal, favorite, perfect jeans, oh how I love them!

Virtually every time I wear this style I get a compliment from someone, these are good jeans!My basic straight leg staple jean is Diesel Ronhar (pictured)

If your figure is similar to mine* (see previous post for details) they might well be exactly what you are looking for.

The problems I find with most straight leg jeans are the following: they are too short, they gape at the back, they are too low cut, the pocket placement is appalling!, they are too tight in the thigh, the denim is stiff and uncomfortable.

Diesel Ronhar are the perfect, classic straight leg cut, they will never date and will always look stylish.

They make a 35" inside leg, they curve in beautifully at the back over your bum so that they fit snugly even when you are sat down, (the waist band is cleverly cut as a curved piece instead of a straight piece like most jeans and there are no seams in it so it is slim fitting and not bulky).
They sit on the hip but are cut about an inch higher than your average high street jean, the pocket placement is exquisite and makes your bum look neat and curvy, the shape in the leg is perfectly proportioned and the denim is soft and has 2% Lycra for fit and comfort.

For me this is the perfect straight leg jean.

I wear mine until they are worn out and then order them again.
I have done for several years now, I never shop for a straight leg jean because you can't improve on perfection.

I'm afraid that I am yet to find the perfect skinny jean, so I have to alter mine, I have tried several brands and have exactly the same problem with all of them, they all gape at the waist at the back.

I would love you to tell me weather you have experienced this too because I know I'm not the only one.

I see girls with builders bums and gapey waist bands everywhere I look...

The way I see it, is this: the problem, (which appears to me to be very common) is caused simply, by cheap, lazy, pattern cutting.

I'm afraid you bring it all on yourselves, if you didn't settle for ill fitting clothing and instead spent a few extra quid on something that has been properly engineered to fit your body then other manufacturers would have to try harder and eventually the prices would come down.

Most jeans are fitted with a waist band which is simply a straight strip of fabric, a long thin rectangle, a tube if you will, this is a shape which, as you know, tessellates well.
At the point at which the waist band of a pair of jeans sits is exactly where most women curve inward, therefore the waistband needs to be smaller at the top than at the bottom to fit this curve, this would mean the waist band would need to be cut in a crescent shape and in two pieces (instead of one folded in half.)
Crescent shapes do not tessellate so well, they take longer to cut and result in some fabric wastage.
This is why fitted jeans never fit you.

Help is at hand of course, you could pay a bit more and try a brand like diesel who cut their waist bands correctly or you could ask your dress maker to dart the waist bands of your jeans to achieve a similar result (I charge around £30 for this service)

Pear Shape:
I would recommend a straight leg or a slim boot cut in a dark colour, avoid distressed denim or lots of pockets or detailing at the hip which can make you look wider, go for a clean look and wear your jeans long with a high heel to elongate you legs.

Apple Shape:
A low rise jean will elongate your body, choose a lighter colour and wear with a darker top to balance out your shape, choose a style with longer back pockets to draw attention down to your slim legs.

Hour Glass:
A boot cut works well with your curves, a dark wash and a high heel will be more slimming, always choose a contoured waist to avoid the gaping back and a denim with a little stretch which will be more comfortable around your thigh.

Specialists denim retailers can be very helpful, they usually know their stuff and if you tell them the problems you find with most jeans they can often recommend something to counter them.

Don't be afraid to use this service, and don't feel under pressure to buy if you don't find the perfect fit this time.

So there you have it ladies...

Go forth and conquer!!

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