It's All In The Jeans

The perfect pair of blue jeans...

That illusive staple item that is never quite right.

Now. You know I do my best for you dear reader, but obviously, even I, can not recommend the perfect pair of jeans for every one of you. This is because I don't have experience of every pair of blue jeans on the market nor intimate knowledge of every one of your figures.

But I do know a lot about denim, I know a lot about fit and construction and I know a lot about what suits different body shapes so....

In your quest you have two options, you take what you need from the advice here in and do a bit of educated shopping or you hire me as a stylist or a dressmaker and get a guaranteed result.

(Without bias or agenda...as I said, just outlining your options ;-)

First of all my own personal, favorite, perfect jeans, oh how I love them!

Virtually every time I wear this style I get a compliment from someone, these are good jeans!My basic straight leg staple jean is Diesel Ronhar (pictured)

If your figure is similar to mine* (see previous post for details) they might well be exactly what you are looking for.

The problems I find with most straight leg jeans are the following: they are too short, they gape at the back, they are too low cut, the pocket placement is appalling!, they are too tight in the thigh, the denim is stiff and uncomfortable.

Diesel Ronhar are the perfect, classic straight leg cut, they will never date and will always look stylish.

They make a 35" inside leg, they curve in beautifully at the back over your bum so that they fit snugly even when you are sat down, (the waist band is cleverly cut as a curved piece instead of a straight piece like most jeans and there are no seams in it so it is slim fitting and not bulky).

They sit on the hip but are cut about an inch higher than your average high street jean, the pocket placement is exquisite and makes your bum look neat and curvy, the shape in the leg is perfectly proportioned and the denim is soft and has 2% Lycra for fit and comfort.

For me this is the perfect straight leg jean.

I wear mine until they are worn out and then order them again.

I have done for several years now, I never shop for a straight leg jean because you can't improve on perfection.

I'm afraid that I am yet to find the perfect skinny jean, so I have to alter mine, I have tried several brands and have exactly the same problem with all of them, they all gape at the waist at the back.

I would love you to tell me weather you have experienced this too because I know I'm not the only one.

I see girls with builders bums and gapey waist bands everywhere I look...

The way I see it, is this: the problem, (which appears to me to be very common) is caused simply, by cheap, lazy, pattern cutting.

I'm afraid you bring it all on yourselves, if you didn't settle for ill fitting clothing and instead spent a few extra quid on something that has been properly engineered to fit your body then other manufacturers would have to try harder and eventually the prices would come down.

Most jeans are fitted with a waist band which is simply a straight strip of fabric, a long thin rectangle, a tube if you will, this is a shape which, as you know, tessellates well.

At the point at which the waist band of a pair of jeans sits is exactly where most women curve inward, therefore the waistband needs to be smaller at the top than at the bottom to fit this curve, this would mean the waist band would need to be cut in a crescent shape and in two pieces (instead of one folded in half.)

Crescent shapes do not tessellate so well, they take longer to cut and result in some fabric wastage.

This is why fitted jeans never fit you.

Help is at hand of course, you could pay a bit more and try a brand like diesel who cut their waist bands correctly or you could ask your dress maker to dart the waist bands of your jeans to achieve a similar result (I charge around £30 for this service)

Pear Shape:

I would recommend a straight leg or a slim boot cut in a dark colour, avoid distressed denim or lots of pockets or detailing at the hip which can make you look wider, go for a clean look and wear your jeans long with a high heel to elongate you legs.

Apple Shape:

A low rise jean will elongate your body, choose a lighter colour and wear with a darker top to balance out your shape, choose a style with longer back pockets to draw attention down to your slim legs.

Hour Glass:

A boot cut works well with your curves, a dark wash and a high heel will be more slimming, always choose a contoured waist to avoid the gaping back and a denim with a little stretch which will be more comfortable around your thigh.

Specialists denim retailers can be very helpful, they usually know their stuff and if you tell them the problems you find with most jeans they can often recommend something to counter them.

Don't be afraid to use this service, and don't feel under pressure to buy if you don't find the perfect fit this time.

So there you have it ladies...

Go forth and conquer!!

The Naked Honest Truth.

Preface:

Today I started to compose a post (imaginatively titled 'It's All in the Jeans';-) it was (perhaps not surprisingly) to be about finding the perfect pair of blue jeans.

I am lucky enough to have found a pair which are, in fact, 'perfect' for me and I found that by drawing from my own experience and recommending my 'perfect' pair to those of you with similar proportions to me I would have to discuss my own figure with you in some detail, otherwise how would you know?

As I began to write down my statistics I went off on a tangent and decided to prelude 'It's all in the Jeans' with this post, I hope you find it interesting. I will talk about denim tomorrow. x

P.S please bare in mind...SIZE DOESN'T MATTER:

*Gilly Woo's vital statistics: for your information and comparison, (also useful when buying me presents;-)

bust 38", waist 30", hip 38", height 5'9", weight 10st12lb, inside leg, 33", bra 34E, shoe 7, dress 12, (quite well proportioned, bit of a flat bum, fairly low natural waist.)

It is good for you to know these details about yourself and not just guess them, get a tape measure and check out your statistics, write them down and keep them in your purse, take note of how your body changes, most of us fluctuate from week to week and our bodies change as we get older or have babies, knowing your actual shape will help you make good choices when buying clothes.

You'd be surprised at how many of my clients think they are taller, shorter, slimmer or fatter than they actually are. Just this weekend I dressed a gorgeous woman in her sixties who told me she had awful legs, instead of taking her word for it I asked her to show me, actually, her legs were a great shape, they just had an uneven skin tone, I insisted she try a pencil skirt with opaque tights and she liked it so much she bought it, changed into it and strutted off to Harvey Nicks for a glass of champagne, (invoking a compliment from a random stranger on her way I'll have you know:-)

The media publishing pictures of celebrities and randomly sticking numbers next to them which they claim are their correct statistics doesn't help women to be realistic about their figures.

It's all nonsense of course, do you really think Cheryl Cole is gonna stand on a set of scales in front of a fashion editor or a news room to confirm their guess work? No. Ridiculous isn't it?

The only person who knows what Cheryl Cole weighs is Cheryl Cole (and maybe her personal trainer.)...and why do you care anyway?

The Fashion Industry is a Bitch.

It will build you up and knock you down at every opportunity.

On the one hand shops make their standard sizes subtly bigger every year to fool you into thinking you are slimmer than you are.

On the other hand they tell you you have to be smaller and smaller to be attractive.

It doesn't matter what it says on the label as long as it fits you, don't buy a skirt that doesn't suit you just because it's a size 8, it doesn't make you a size 8 it just means you now own an incorrectly labeled garment that doesn't suit you.

Size Zero

I had a Saturday job at The Gap 14 years ago and I sold size zero jeans.

At that time I wore an American size 6. American sizes are different to British sizes, an American size 6 equates roughly to a British size 10, but not exactly, the proportions are different, a UK10 would be far too small around my waist but probably fit my hips ok (because of my flatish bum) a USA6 fitted me for the same reason.

By this token a UK6 (USA 2) could comfortably wear a size zero jean if she had a smallish bum.

I realise that a UK6 is little but it's not ridiculous! a petite woman of 5'2" could easily be a healthy, curvy sexy UK6.

God only knows why the British media have felt the need to make such a massive drama out of it now!

Your dress size is not a bloody status symbol, it's just your dress size and it really doesn't matter what it is at all as long as you are a healthy weight. If you're a size 14 in Topshop and a size 16 in M&S so what? get to know your favorite brands and you'll always know what size to try...and by the way 6ft tall models are not a size zero...I work with them, I take their real measurements, trust me, the media make it all up.

While we are on the subject of models...do not be under any illusions that models are just a pretty face, there is a definitive skill to looking good in a photograph, and taking direction from a photographer, you could be the most beautiful person in the world and not make it as a successful model.

(N.B. Why ever models are such aspirational figures is beyond me! being photogenic is lovely I'm sure, making a career out of it might be a nice way to earn a living but it's not easy money, it's hard graft!)

This may be controversial, but the fact of the matter is thin people look better in photographs.

(Let me be clear, I promote a healthy body image and I am fully behind the idea of banning models with an unhealthy BMI but some girls are naturally very thin)

They are easier to direct because there are less distortions when they reposition themselves and there is less airbrushing with angular subjects which means less time and less money needs to be spent on an image to achieve a slick and professional result.

Hiring a thin model to make a pretty picture is the same as hiring a courageous fireman or a brainy lawyer, there is nothing more to it than that.

Please bare in mind that just because a girl is a model does not nesascerily mean that she is always the sexiest woman in the room, she is just the most photogenic....

(...also please don't hate her because she is beautiful, she is only doing her job and does not necessarily have an eating disorder.)

There is one more myth that I would like to put to bed please...

Marilyn Monroe was NOT a size 16.

I have been in the room with, and seen very close at hand actual dresses that Marilyn Monroe wore and, (unfortunately perhaps,) I would not have fitted into any of them, Marilyn Monroe by today's standards was around 5'4" and a size 8-10. Get over it.

N.B. If you use the measurements from a size 12 1950's commercial dress pattern they would equate roughly to a modern day size 16, Marilyn Monroe may have, once, (when she was having a fat day) worn a 1950's size 16 dress but she probably had to have it taken in even then.

"Illusion is the First of All Pleasures" Oscar Wilde.

Did you know that Agent Provocateur was a house hold brand name before they had opened a single shop?
Their marketing campaign was so successful that everyone wanted the product before they even knew what it was.
Astounding isn't it?
The company branding was, (and still is) more important and more impressive than the actual product and people still, happily, pay a premium for it.
On the contrary there are people making exceptional products and paying attention to quality, design, ethics and value for money and no one has ever heard of them.

Such is the crazy world we live in…

It is my (self imposed,) mission to bring to your attention these unsung heros of the fashion and beauty world.
Without bias or agenda I will share with you the secrets of a stylish, quality, functional capsule wardrobe, I will advise you when to save and when to splurge, and I will educate you on garment production and alteration, and on how to achieve a perfect fit.

But first... I need to talk a little bit more about your underwear.

I know you are probably thinking by now that I have an unhealthy obsession with your boobs and bums (and who wouldn’t? they are fabulous after all…) but this is important stuff!

All I’m doing is starting at the beginning...

That is to say…eat well, sleep well, exercise regularly, smile lots, love lots, have good underwear...

Problem solvers-the dos and don’ts:
First of all if you have any of those awful ‘invisible’ clear plastic bra straps in your lingerie draw throw them out immediately!! I mean it! Do it right now, (dancer’s you are exempt but ONLY when you are on stage and to be seen from an extreme distance.)
They are NOT invisible. We can all see them…who are you trying to kid?
You have two choices, a good strapless undergarment, or a garment with straps, it’s as simple as that.

Lingerie tape is your friend:
Use it all the time.
Affectionately called ‘tit tape’ it is a double sided, hypo allergenic, tape, which is a staple in any good stylist’s (or stylish person’s) ‘kit’. Use it to stick your top to your skin or your bra in order to avoid ‘wardrobe malfunctions’ and nipple flashing.
A great quick fix for a loose hem, lingerie tape can also be used to secure a slippy sling back or stick a lose court shoe to your foot, (particularly useful when wearing tights)
It can be purchased on rolls or in strips, which can easily be popped in your purse for reapplication (or for educational gifting to less stylish friends.)

Gym matters:
A good sports bra is essential for every single woman.
I wear a normal underwired bra underneath a super supportive sports bra when I do any high impact activity.
I always wear 100% cotton knickers and socks to the gym too, it’s healthier and more comfortable.

Magic knickers:
I hope you realise how difficult this is for me, I go against everything I stand for by telling the world I used to hate my boobs and now I’m discussing my granny pants!

First of all, as far as anyone knows, you don’t own any.

Only wear the ‘cycling short’ type under trousers (…or floor length skirts if, you are not planning on doing any of the following during the course of the evening: falling over, dancing on tables, doing the cancan, or demonstrating your high kick.)

N.B. As imposing these rules on yourself at any kind of social event is likely to hinder the experience Gilly Woo would suggest ONLY wearing them under trousers.

Tummy control knickers (which I don’t have any of;-) are great under dresses, particularly if they cinch your waist in too.
They smooth your contours and even out your shape.
The ones that I don’t own come up to my bra and are seamless, (this way you avoid the unsightly knicker line that can sometimes be visible at the waist.) Always buy them a size too small for maximum effect.
Department stores are your best resource for this item as they will carry lots of styles for you to try, I would avoid anything with boning unless you go made to measure, when buying off the peg I prefer to stick with ‘industrial strength’ elastic, it’s more comfy and less likely to show under clothing, boning only works when it’s rigid (as in corsetry.)
Do not be fooled by clever marketing! Just because Gok Wan or Trinny and Susanna are grinning at you from the label doesn’t mean it’s the best product on the market, try the old lady section in Debenhams, you might be surprised…

If you own any kind of contour dress and are bigger than a size 10 you need these in your life.

The Holy Grail

The strapless bra.
Complete waste of time...uncomfortable, unattractive, and always slipping down.
For years I have been saying 'why doesn't someone make a strapless bra based on corset technology?'
With corsetry all the support comes from underneath your bust so there is absolutely no need for a strap unless it is a design feature, no matter what your bust size.

(N.B: I'm talking about proper, good corsetry here girls, not basques or bodices or anything from Anne Summers, or anywhere at all actually, other than a proper corset maker.
I can't begin to explain the difference here, suffice to say, if it has less than 16 bones and less than 8 of them are steel it ain't a corset in my book...or in Dita's book or in any body else's, if they know their stuff.)

Because a corset fits snugly around your rib cage there is no where for your bust to go, it has to remain in the cup that you put it in, it is impossible for a corset to slip down and they never need to be 'yanked up'.
Because the cups are heavily boned you always have a perfect bust no matter how many shapes you throw on the dance floor.
As a perfect example I have a fabulous client who is a big fan of the 'running man' dance move (you know who you are;-)
To my knowledge, whilst donning her Gilly Woo Couture, she hasn't once had to do that awful unsightly 'hoik' action that so tragically accompanies most strapless ensembles.

For years I have been saying 'why doesn't someone make a strapless bra based on corset technology?'

and finally, FINALLY! someone has!!

I can not express how thrilling it was for me to discover this little gem in Debenhams 5 months ago.

As soon as I saw the oddly proportioned architectural esq structure, ( it was bathed in a halo of light, there were angels singing in my head and...) I said out loud, 'BY DIOR! THEY'VE ONLY BLOODY GONE AND DONE IT!!!'

This rush of elation was quickly followed by a swift metaphorical kick...as the hovering shop assistant backed away from me with an uneasy look in her eye and I realised, yet again, that somebody was going to make millions out of my idea and that somebody wasn't me....It was wonderbra actually.

http://www.ultimatestrapless.co.uk/

The Foundations of Success

I have two lingerie draws... one is full of pretty everyday bra and knicker ensembles and occasional lingerie in fabrics such as, embroidered mesh, lace, silk satin and velvet, it also contains, suspender belts, seamed stockings, hold ups, fishnets and, of course...a home made lavender bag ;-)

The other draw contains plain black 100% cotton briefs, sports bras, socks, opaque tights and weird looking 'problem solving' items. (more about these later...)

Please note that neither of these draws contain ANYTHING, grey (by design or decay), loose (in terms of fit or elastic) or holey (blergh!)

Your every day bra must fit, support, be comfortable and match your knickers.

If you want my advice, when you find a brand you like stick to it! I buy everything Freya make twice a year.

For me, their fit is second to none, their sizing is consistent, the quality is great and they use fabulous colours.

In my opinion there is little point in shopping around for bras when you are a 32F.

The companies beginning to make bigger bras haven't got it right yet, and old faithfuls like Triumph and Fantasie (whilst achieving a faultless fit with years of research) are frankly in need of a new design team and a company image to match! (*note to self*: maybe I should send them some sketches...)

I realise that they are working on it, but their collections continue to disappoint me season after season. For some reason lingerie companies were, until very recently, under the impression that every girl who is bigger than a D cup is also over 65 years of age and has no desire to look remotely sexy. Ever.

If you are amply blessed in the bosom department forget paying less than £20 for a bra. It's a false economy.

The fact of the matter is that you can't make a good, big bra cheaply (yet).

I don't even think Marks and Spencer's do a good enough job, forget Asda and Primark!
They woo you with pretty fabrics, expensive (airbrushed) celebrity photo shoots and £7.99 price tags, but don't be fooled!

They can not yet compete with lingerie companies who have been supporting giant bosoms for hundreds of years.

We are talking about engineering here! decades of pattern cutting and sampling and wear tests... you can't just send a vacuum press, a load of foam and some satin bows off to Shanghai and expect to get the same results.

When you buy a bra it should fit you on the loosest hook, over time and through washing and wearing the elastic will stretch which is when you will use the other hooks to achieve the original fit.
Over more time the elastic will perish and lose it's stretch even more, which is when you will throw it in the bin, (not when you will rename it your 'comfy bra' and develop some kind of ugly attachment to it )

When putting your bra on you should lean forward and allow your breasts to 'fall' into the cups.

The underwire should be flat on your rib cage and sit snug to your breast bone, if you have a gap you need a bigger cup size.

Your breasts should sit comfortably in the cups and there should be no spilling or cutting in.

The support comes as much from the strap around your back as from the shoulder straps.

Don't be tempted to wear your shoulder straps too tight to achieve more up lift, all you will achieve is unsightly back fat and ridges in your shoulders (which can become permanent after years of incorrect wear)

The strap across your back should be straight and in line with your under bust It should be snug but not tight.

As I said before your bra should ALWAYS match your knickers.

Do not expect me to justify this statement, if you have to ask why I'm afraid there is no hope for you.

To Be Continued....

It's All In Your Mind

To begin with I need to give you an important piece of advice.
NEVER discuss your flaws and body hang ups with anyone EVER.

There is absolutely no good that can come of it, at best you will be drawing attention to the bits you should be glossing over and at worst you will appear to be fishing for compliments.

The only exception to this rule is your trainer at the gym or your dressmaker, it is perfectly acceptable to say 'please help me tone my thighs' or 'design me something that hides my tummy' but only because you are taking a positive step towards realistic self improvement, a comment directed at a friend or (heaven forbid!) a boyfriend, such as 'look at this disgusting cellulite' or 'I hate my enormous feet' has no positive connotations what so ever and therefore has no place in your vocabulary.

I hate to tell you this girls but essentially, you are what you are, so you may as well deal with it because the alternative is being miserable about something you have no control over.
If you are a pear shape then you will always be a pear shape, if you are flat chested or have a round tummy or a large bust or short legs you just have to accept it, learn to work with it, and realise that you are beautiful just the way you are.

Allow me to paint you a picture...
When I was 18 years old I started saving money for a breast reduction, I was of the impression, at that time, that if I had smaller boobs I would be happier and my life would be improved.
The only bras available in my size were enormous granny ones with inch thick straps, and no underwire. I couldn't wear anything strapless, backless, high necked or drapey, there wasn't a single dress on the high street that fitted my figure remotely, men would make rude comments at me when I was at work which made me uneasy and nervous (as a bar wench in a cocktail joint, why I would of expected anything else is beyond me!)
I felt uncomfortable in my own skin and it made me insecure and miserable.

Around this time I met a man who inspired me to travel, to this day we are still the best of friends, he recommended a book called work your way around the world and I ended up spending my 'breast reduction' money on an 18 month trip around Europe.
There is little space for vanity when you have to live out of a backpack for over a year and I was so busy meeting people, seeing sights and experiencing new things, (and sometimes, just surviving!) that I didn't have time to obsess about my boobs!
I built up confidence because I felt I had interesting things to say about my trips and experiences, I found it easier to interact with strangers because I was forced out of my comfort zone and gradually I began to hear the compliments people paid me in a completely different way.

I began to believe them.

When I returned I was a little slimmer, I stood a little taller, and...(I've never had a tan in my life but, after living in Spain for 6 months)...my skin was marginally less 'glow in the dark' white.
I went back to work in the cocktail bar briefly while I looked for a job.
When a raucous stag party came in and said '8 tequilas sweetheart, and by the way, GREAT tits!' I smiled genuinely, said 'thank you fellas, I agree' then I popped a drop of Tabasco in each of their shots ;-)

Those of you who know me may be surprised to learn of my early hatred of my fabulous embonpoint, not least, perhaps, because I don't look particularly top heavy, this is because I learned how to dress. When I couldn't find something that worked in the shops I made it myself, I scoured specialist boutiques for 'pretty' bras in larger sizes, I researched flattering necklines and made subtle alterations to shirts and tops. I do chest presses at the gym, wear a bra to bed and use a good body cream with collagen.
Now a days, with better lingerie production techniques, and the Internet, I have no trouble buying great underwear but dresses and tailored tops still need a nip and a tuck 99% of the time.

When I think back I can't believe I almost had unnecessary, major, invasive surgery.
The problem wasn't with my body, the problem was with my head.

I know a lot of women who have had reconstructive and cosmetic procedures and in some cases, I think plastic surgery is a wonderful option but I have to admit that in my experience it is rarely the quick fix it is often portrayed as in the media.

My point is this... make the best of yourself, always, but don't neglect your mental health or set yourself unrealistic goals.

Don't try and fit into anyone else's 'ideal'...If you have mousey, poker straight hair no amount of peroxide and hair extensions will make you look anything like the girl in the Timotae advert. If your skin is so fair that it looks blue in some lights no amount of fake tan will make you look like Penelopie Cruze. Just because Anna Wintour says purple leg warmers are 'in' doesn't mean you have to wear them.

You'll just look ridiculous.

Embrace what you have and make the best of it.

Your own 'ideal' should be the best version of yourself, just the way you are.

Most importantly of all, don't overlook the fact, that the problem you think you have with your looks could be all in your mind...

Gilly Woo - An Introdution.

Hello and welcome to my very first blog!

My name is Gilly and I'm a designer, dressmaker and stylist based in Bristol in the UK.
I design and make bespoke finery: bridal gowns, occasion wear and corsets, I style photo shoots, fashion shows, performers and individuals and I party pretty hard too.
I'm 30, I'm single and I live with a gay man, a papier mache flamingo and a lot of hats in a little flat in Cotham.

I decided to write this blog to offer impartial honest and realistic advice on style and beauty that comes from years of experience working with women of every age, shape and size and a deep seated, in built passion for making women feel beautiful, feminine, stylish and (above all) confident. Not from a load of celebrity endorsements and beauty industry back handers often designed to hard sell you unnecessary products by making you feel inadequate.

I deal with self depreciating, body dismorphic women every day and it makes me so sad that they can't see the beauty in themselves that is so obvious to me.

When I go out dressed up I get as many compliments from women about the way I look as I do from men, on one occasion, in a ladies powder room, I had an actual queue of women asking me where my outfit was from and complimenting me on my look, it took me 20 minutes to get out of the loo!... my date thought I'd climbed out the window ;-)
One of these women became a client, I told her her correct bra size, (2 cup sizes bigger that the one she was wearing) made her a corset (a welcome addition to any wardrobe and the only comfortable strapless garment she had ever owned) and altered some of her work suits so that they fitted her properly and drew attention to her tiny waist. I made an empire line dress which was entirely the wrong shape for her and far to small around her bust) into a pretty summer skirt and found a beautiful piece of silk to make a matching camisole (that fitted her bust perfectly.)

Most of these jobs were small and inexpensive but that woman told me I'd changed her life.
By learning how to dress her figure she began to love it for the first time.
People asked her if she'd lost weight or been on holiday and complimented her on how well she looked, her posture improved with her confidence and she told me that she was genuinely happier.

I'm not a model, I'm not unusually pretty, I'm an average size 12, I'm not rich or famous, (I'm not getting any younger!) there is nothing much spectacular about me at all, except that I know how to dress, I'm not afraid to stand out in a crowd, I know about underwear and structure and cut and fit and how to flatter my figure, I know how to apply good make up, I'm lucky enough to call my hairdresser my best friend and I'm on first name terms with my shoe repair guy.

It's as simple as that girls, it just takes a little knowledge and a little practise and it could just change your life....